Europe May - June 2016
Partly to celebrate our
25th wedding anniversary, partly to celebrate my
birthday and partly because we needed a
vacation and wanted to see something different we
decided to go to Europe. The trip became the
honeymoon we did not have when we first married. Travel was by air and rail.
We were able to use our Aeroplan miles to pay for a
lot of the travel and some of the hotels. I upgraded to first class where
possible and we had a comfortable trip. Our
itinerary was two days in Barcelona, two days in
Madrid, two days in Rome, two days in Paris, a day
in the south of France and finally a return to
Barcelona prior to a return to Canada.
As this
was our first trip to Europe we reserved most of the
hotels and air travel ahead of time. I did not like
the look of the USA Web booking site for the trains
and attractions and I am glad we waited to book in
person. Train travel is fast and it is easy to pick
up tickets at just about any time prior to
departure. We even missed a train and the French
train authorities exchanged our tickets for a later
train no charge. Travelling first class was only 20
Euros extra. Be careful with tourist trap sellers of
"front of the line" packages. Usually they are
not as advertised.
First stop Barcelona:
In
order to get a feel for the city I would recommend
the tourist double decker busses. There is a red
line and a blue line. We used both. They have a tape
recording with most of the attractions in various
languages. You get an overview of the city and can
get off and get on at any of the stops. Busses are
frequent and the cost is reasonable. After
the overview use the subways. They are efficient and
get you around quickly and for low cost. The people
are very helpful and using public transit is a great
option.
My first impression is that one should
keep Barcelona as a bucket list destination. It
is well worth a visit. Lots of art and
architecture, (most often one and the same
thing). Great food. Lots of trees, bicycles and
motorbikes. Lovely street restaurants with
inexpensive wine. Bread in corner markets out of
this world and the thinly sliced ham is so
delicious. Here are some pictures:
Mari opening the door to Europe
Here we go!
Familia Sagrada Church
Antoni Gaudi's masterpiece started almost 150
years ago, not finished yet.
Barcelona View from the Church
As you will
see churches are big in Europe. There
are lots of statues and great arched
ceilings the art is fabulous.
When we
went the Barcelona subway system was
on strike. It was a civilized strike
though. The subways kept running but
not as frequently. It did get
crowded.
Barcelona
is a coastal city and so there is a
beach. We did not swim. I took no
pictures of topless sunbathers. Must
have been Marisol that took this
snapshot...
Gothic Quarter
Many old interesting shops in the
gothic quarter like the used
bookstore where I picked up a two
volume 2nd edition of Las Miserables
for Javier
First
saint (for me) with a mustache
Shot from the top of the Columbus
monument. Note the blue line tourist
bus.
La Rambla
Two
days went by very quickly. We
headed for Madrid using the fast
train. The service is great.
Trains go about 300 kph. They
are very smooth and quiet. No
rocking and rolling like
Canadian trains. The bar service
is great as well.
Countryside from the train window
Apparently
they are chemtrailing Spain as well
Madrid
I
felt very much at home in Madrid.
It was like an emotional
reunion although in this
life it was my first visit.
The last time I felt this
way was in 1962 on my first
visit to NYC. I was there
for a long weekend with my
Mom and sister. When it was
time to go I broke into
tears, not the whining baby
tears of a spoiled child but
rather tears of grief at the
sad prospect of leaving home
with the knowledge of not
being able to return for who
knows how long. Perhaps it
has influenced my
immigration practice and the
compassion I feel for my
displaced clients and
hopeful immigrants. I felt I
could live in Madrid easy.
If I had lots of money
perhaps I would. I can see
myself holed up in an attic
writing a novel.
Madrid
is wonderful. Old world
smashing into new world.
Leftist green, modern and
old and everywhere cuture
and art. Lots of theater
like the Lion King, Cabaret,
Shakespeare (A Midsummer's
Nights Dream -In Spanish no
less) and at least a dozen
cinemas and theaters
downtown. Mari was in heaven
as well with so many stores
with Eurofashion dresses,
shoes and little shirts for
like 5 Euros. Everything was
beautiful.
We were
both touched at a small but
very good restaurant. The
server was friendly and
engaged us in conversation.
We explained that we were
celebrating our 25th
anniversary and the honeymoon we
never got to take when we
first were married. What a
meal! They gave us lots of
free dessert and a litre of
after dinner liquor - two
kinds, a kind of yellow
Sambuca and a creamy
chocolate similar to
Baileys. The meal started
off with a shared tropical salad,
fresh mescla greens, heart
of palm, oranges, pineapple,
shrimp. Mari had a green
seafood pasta. I believe it
was seaweed pasta. Amazingly
good -more shrimps, clams
etc. I was feeling
like meat and the owner,
originally from
Argentina,
rustled up an incredible rib
eye, perfectly done, crispy
and very hot on the outside
with just the right combination
of salt, garlic and perhaps
onion. In the middle almost
raw. We washed everything
down with a litre of Spanish
wine. There was also tea,
esspresso, dulce leche with
mango, after dinner
chocolates with coconut and
finally mango sherbet to
cleanse the palet. I have not
eaten this well in a long
time. It set us back 68
Euros. Not crazy expensive
at all considering the
quality, service and
ambiance.
The server bid
us fairwell with hugs and
cheek kisses. I passed a
bookstore with important
Spanish language authors on
display. It was next to a
nice theater and I suddenly broke into
tears. Perhaps it was the
wine that made me emotional
but the feeling seemed deeper
than that - it was an
emotional attachment and
recognition of home. Just
like New York for me. I knew
I would be sad to leave.
Some evening shots
A Night at the Opera
While in Rome I
suppose one should visit the Opera. We saw La
Traviata. Fortunately I looked it up on
Wikipedea before we went so we more or less
understood what was happening. It was great. We
had a little box upstairs. You arrive an hour
before the show and they serve you the first
course of a nice meal with a liter of very good
Merlot. Every intermission (there were 3) they
serve more food. What a civilized way to watch a
show! We took home the menu as a souvenir. 1.
Traditional Roman canapes..salt cod and potato
croquettes with caper flowers and tartar sauce.
2. Sardinian Antipasto..Pane guttiau with a
Fiore Sardinaian pecorino cheese fondulata and
bottarga. (I don't know what that is either but
it tasted good, basically high end cheese and
crackers) 3. First course: Fresh pasta
millefeuille from Partenopea with porcini
mushrooms, aubergines, buffalo mozzarella and
basil sauce....Then the lights went down and
there was singing and stuff. Giuseppe Verdi is
famous but like Shakespear kind of old fashioned. Plus
they sang in Italian -They sang
very well and the costumes were beautiful. Then
there was an intermission and they brought the
main course Sicilian "cartoccio" with swordfish,
tomatoes, olives, capers and oregano. This was
cooked in a little package you had to unwrap.
Super delicious. A small portion but very
satisfying. Then more singing, beautiful
dresses. Then another intermission and desert,
Vinsanto semifreddo with a dried fruit sauce and
Tuscan cantucci biscuits...a kind of ice cream,
hard but not cold. Wierd and delicious. At the
end they brought me an espresso and Mari had a
tea. I polished off the wine.
Dressing up for the Opera
At one point in the show the lead singer comes up to
the balcony and sang right beside us. Cool!
Chestnuts roasting by an open fire....
Paris
We arrived in
Paris during the worst rain storm in 35
years. The Seine River burst its banks and
they had to close the Louvre. We purchased
disposable raincoats and continued with the
trip. Rain or no rain we were there.
We spent a day
trying to figure
out the Parisian
subway system. It is great but complicated
and frustrating and either under
construction or strike. (Sort of like
France).
View from the top (On a rainy day)
Enough with the Rain- Lets go Shopping
Printemps
Paris is
famous for fashion and Printemps
Department store is a place to visit.
Nine floors of high end stuff. It was
even great for this quick shopper to
take some time and enjoy the lovely
clothing and things for the home.
Just relaxing while the girl with the red
umbrella does some shopping.
You can't go on a honeymoon without a
wedding dress
The Cafeteria
Tried some street crepes
6
Where is the girl with the red umbrella?
Locking up the love: Notre Dame
Waiting for Coronel Fabian....Actually I
forgot the camera bag in the hotel lock
up. We put our luggage in there after
check out so we could look around some
more before the train. We got side
tracked at the artist's quarter and were
in a rush. I absent mindedly forgot my
camera bag. Mari
waited in the subway with the luggage
and I raced back to get it.
Unfortunately we missed the train by
about 2 minutes. The French train
service personal were very helpful and
exchanged the tickets for a trip running
two hours later no problem, no extra
charge. It was all good.
So it was raining too much in Paris. We
thought that perhaps in the south of France
things would be better. We went to a place
called Narbonne. It was supposed to be on the
coast but the coast was not in town. I think
it was 10 km or more away. The hotel
located across from the train
station had awnings which banged
against the windows in the wind.
There was a lot of wind. By 9:00 at
night everything was closed.
There was a nice church though and a
couple of shops. In France you have
to pay to use the toilet. In some of
the finer places they have luxurious
Japanese spa toilets which cost 2.50
to 3 Euros. Here is a photo of the 1 Euro
night
toilet in the train station. Gives
you an idea of the accomodations. We
tried to find a bus to go to
Barcelona but the bus station was
abandoned. People in the parking lot
said just show up around 4:00 pm and
if there is room....no we got back
on the train and were out of there
by 2:00.
Night Toilet
Narbonne - 1 Euro
Back to Barcelona.
We were supposed to spend some time
in the South of France but Narbonne
was a dissapointment and we were
getting tired. We took the next high
speed train out of there and
returned to Barcelona for the
remainder of the trip. A taxi driver
at the train station found us good
accomodation which was an apartment
with cooking facilities, plates.
Food in tourist restaurants can be
kind of expensive but we were
pleasantly surprised at the quality
and prices of the food in
supermarkets, one of which was just
around the corner. For the next
three days we ate lightly, mostly
sandwiches etc prepared in our room
and taken along on excursions. It
cut the cost of eating about 90%.
Our hotel was around the corner
from the Barcelona Football Club. We
took the tour. It set up a very good
emotional response for our last day.
It went like this: Football (soccer
for the Northamericanos) is the most
popular sport in the world.
Barcelona has one of the best teams
in the world. People come from all
over to take the tour. They are like
pilgrims who are guided through the
Vatican museum. Everyone seemed
looking for a chance to see Messi or
touch the grass on the pitch, walk
through the broadcast booth,
dressing rooms and most of all the
museum with over a hundred years of
silver cups, old boots and dusty
soccer balls. There is subtle but
stirring music playing everywhere,
in the broadcast booth an continuous
loop of Messi's first
GOOOOOOOAAAALLLLL!!!!!, a TV
commercial with two little old
ladies sitting outside their home
when a flower pot suddenly falls
from an upper balcony towards them.
They are miraculously saved by a
football star who knocks the flower
pot away with his head. All
wonderfully filmed with stirring
music designed for an emotional
response. It was worth the tour as
you left feeling somehow uplifted.
With that feeling in our hearts
we headed down to the Plaza Espanya
for our last evening to see the Miro
park and what was done to the former
bullfighting arena which was turned
into a very nice shopping mall
complete with a Cinema 12 showing
the latest movies. We were directed
by a nice family to the magic
fountain which puts on a lovely
display on weekends. While we waited
on the steps it became apparent to
me that there was a mystic energy.
In the distance the Family Sagrado
church lined up with the
bullfighting arena, then the great
obelisks, then a river from the
fountain, the fountain itself and
behind us up the stairs more
obelisks and finally grand
government buildings. There was an
obvious lay line planning and phalic
symbolism at work. I got a strange
but not unpleasant feeling of mystic
energy.
So while we waited
for the show people started coming.
Many people. It was like the
football stadium but while at the
football stadium it seemed that the
people were tourists from all over
the world where soccer is loved,
here at the fountain it seemed to
this observer there was a
disproportionate percentage of
ex-patriot Spaniards. There were
people from Argentina, Chile,
Guatemala, Mexico, my Dominicana and
many others. By the time the show
started I estimate thousands were
there. All of the dozens of
countries Spain sent her people to
for the last 500 years were coming
back as though called. The water
show was wonderful. It was as though
in that magic place Spain was
calling back its children. The
energy was palpable. One day I must
return.
Barcelona: Art and Archetecture Mix
Buying food at the Market